Jennie’s been in touch – she has a trotting horse that won’t stop, literally:
“Hi Al,
I wonder if you can help me.
My mare is 4 years old. She is very tame and friendly – comes to me to be saddled, can be touched anywhere on her body etc.
My problem is that whenever we ride downhill – especially on our way home – she wants to trot. She’s a trotting horse that doesn’t want to stop.
Unfortunately all our routes involve steep hills coming home. We believe in walking the last kilometre home to cool the horses off and so that they don’t get into the habit of rushing for home. I have to fight with her all the way and it scares me. I sometimes just get off and lead her the last bit – which I am sure in not a good idea because then she is getting her own way – trotting horse or not.
Trotting horse won’t stop
I used to ride her on a broken snaffle bit but when I pulled on the reins to slow her she reared. I thought perhaps it was hurting her so changed to a straight bar bit (Pelham type with one set of reins attached to the ring by the mouth, not the lower ring)
Now when I pull on the reins she throws her head up nearly hitting me in the face. I apply gentle steady pressure to the reins – no jerking or anything, and release as soon as she stops trotting, but she just immediately starts again. I would appreciate any advice. As you have maybe worked out I am not a very confident rider!
My other problem is that she will not stand still when I am mounting – how do I teach her to stand still?
Thanks,
Jenny”
Can you help with Jenny’s trotting horse problem? Please do leave a comment below if you can.
A trotting horse problem above – now on to a nipping one:
Now on to Julie:
I have a 5 year old mustang gelding that I have had since June this year. He is a great companion to me and follows me around. He nudges me for a few moments and than sometimes he nibbles at me and than will open his mouth to bite. I don’t want to make him mistrust me with my hands and do any bad reactions in his eyes. I have used my fingers and kind of nipped him back on the nose.
This seems to work for a little while, than he will try again and I do the nip on the nose again. Than he will look at me and rub against me or go to graze again beside me.
Am I doing the right thing with this? I know a horse bite can be serious and I have I don’t want to be bit or my teenage sons to be bit either. I also want to keep his trust.
I just read your ebook on natural horsemanship. It was great! I would of liked a bit more information on different subjects that you discussed like the trotting horse. The mustang is my second horse to share my life with. My first horse was a 1/2 quarter 1/2 Arabian gelding. He was about 18 hands high. He weighed almost 1200 pounds. We had an awesome relationship. I could ride him with no halter. We would play tag and run in the pasture. He also wanted to bite when I first got him.
Any information on this would be wonderful. I also want to know about natural remedies for vaccinations and worming if you have any suggestions. I leave my horse in an open field around my house. He comes up to the house at night and through out the day. I know he has never had shoes on his feet. I’m not feeding grains right now either since its is summer. I plan on feeding oats and natural unsweetened grains this winter like I did my first horse.
Thank you for your site ,e books and information.
God Bless
Julie”
“i do question if violence is the only way, or is it the only way we know?
zebras are very brutal little equines. having evolved fighting lions to survive, they think nothing of attacking people. parents get them for children, only to find the animals grow to be so vicious one cannot even enter their paddock.
this situation is common that there are zebra rehab stables in the states. clicker/behaviour marker training is used with great success. zebra cannot be smacked or they will attack without inhibitions. a bit more serious than a trotting horse problem.
i admit if horses have gotten cheeky with bites in the past i have used some type of physical intimidation as a response, typically with success, but the zebra trainers success rate with an animal in the same family, but a far more violent version suggests to me that violence and intimidation may not be our only options.
Sage”
Big thanks to everyone – I wonder what the collective wisdom will come up with for Julie and Jennie with her horse trotting issue.
Julie’s post reminded me of this one too:
Bev’s Biting horse.
That’s all for this time, please do keep ’em coming.
And now onto Dylan.
Ever wonder why your horse chooses to trot? Trotting is actually a natural gait for horses that sits perfectly between a slow walk and a faster canter or gallop. It’s comfortable and efficient for them, and it’s often their go-to when they need to pick up the pace but don’t want to expend too much energy. Trotting is also a super versatile gait—they use it for exercise, play, and covering ground more quickly when they’re out in the pasture or going for a ride with you.
For us as riders, the trot is a favorite because it’s easy to control and great for building both our and the horse’s fitness. Trotting engages a horse’s core and legs, giving them a solid workout while still keeping things manageable. And when we ride, the trot is a fantastic way to improve our own balance and strength—it’s why so many lessons focus on it! From sitting trot to posting, mastering this gait is like a rite of passage.
Another cool thing about trotting is that horses seem to find it comfortable too. It’s the speed they can maintain for longer periods without tiring out, and it’s less intense on their joints than faster gaits. That’s why when you’re out on a trail, they often fall into a relaxed trot—it’s the perfect middle ground.
And let’s be honest, horses trot for the simple joy of it too! Young horses often trot around the field, playing and testing their moves. Even older horses get that little pep in their step sometimes. Whether your horse is trotting because they’re excited, exercising, or just moving with you on a ride, it’s a natural, happy gait that shows off their energy and spirit.
Next up
Perhaps leaving a bit of time to immediately turn horse and go back to riding trail every time horse starts rush to home….teach that more wk will come in the opposite direction will occur the moment horse begins to rush home.
I back my quarter horse out of riding ring periodically just to tweet for this.
also when mounting and he walks off….back up each time he walks off and I tell my guy to wait as I mount also.
he is very well trained and behaved but I work on something each ride to tweak to keep him supple and me in charge. I try to use very light signals but make them clear at same time.
I agree with Sandi’s line of thought…
I agree with backing up if a horse wont stand for mounting. It works in many cases.
However, I dont agree with starting off on the trail again. Rather than gently, but firmly insisting on returning calmly, that can confuse a horse, who is likely to see it as ‘we’re simply continuing’.
training my “baby”….wouldn’t stand quiet for me to mount…If she stepped forward ( I am on ground) I took my hand or finger & gently put it on the “offending” leg until she moved that leg back & I would make sure she was always “square” or standing with feet evenly placed. When she obliged I always praised her & petted her. Then would walk off with her, would turn & ask her to halt quietly. I would “square her again”. Go to mounting block after leading her & getting her “squared” before I get on block. I Wait quietly & talk softly to her asking her to who or stand. practice practice practice with lots of time & patience….This will work & horse will be happy to do it….especially if you’re kind & quiet.
Yip. Mary’s advice sounds really sensible to me.
Very often, riders get frustrated and even if you’re not flinging your crop in the air, screaming, horses sense it and you go nowhere
Trotting down hill is a pain in the rear end when you don’t want them to. Have you tried turning her in a circle when she does it – gently not roughly – she’ll get sick of turning in circles every time she tries to trot – have seen it work before, may be worth a try – or as somebody else said – backing her up a bit and getting her mind on the job. Just a thought.
I got my first horse when I was 10/12 yrs. old..I was so excited to show my grandpa my beautiful horse 🙂 Being thrilled that he was intrested, I asked him if there was any thing important I should do? He looked seriously at me with his deep blue eyes and said, “If I ever catch you walking your horse home, I promise you will never ride that horse again! Ya know, after all of these years (I’m 58) I still believe he would have taken the horse away and sold it. Best of luck and God Bless You
I agree with Sandi too. Turning or stopping is used in dog training. When a puppy/dog pulls, the handler either turns around or stops. The dog learns forward momentum stops/or reverses if it rushes ahead without being “released”.
I am a Sandy too. I use the same strategy. Walk or we go back up trail, sometimes I can circle if it a safe ares then try to walk again. If horse doesn’t walk do it again. With the walking off when you mount, Yes back her up and just keep doing that until she stands. Stay calm and just keep showing what you want. Make the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy… remember and practice this at all times give her time to think 😉
I have a 18h Irish Draught when i got his 6 months ago the seller said he could do everything and stupid me i believed him.
My issue is he does not like anything above him so when you try and get on he will run off or buck you off i have tried everything even sent him away to be looked at but after 12 weeks he has made slight inprovments.any one had this issue and resolved it please let me know
HI..Imho your horse has 2 issues..He is unconfident about your leadership..GROUNDWORK!! Work your horse in a circle but give very gentle squeezes on the lunge line ..he will stop and turn to face you..walk straight up to him not looking him in the eye ..get up but not on and then off..walk away and ignore for 5 seconds..repeat until he copes well then get on and off..repeat again..dont lunge unless he moves away from you when you approach..the second issue is fear based..to safely deal with it make a mannikin and ask him to wear it while in the paddock..when he confidently does this you can get on ..if he moves off before you ask school in a circle..when he is still rub and pat him all over..progress to bouncing in the saddle and touch between the ears and on his rump randomly..he will put his head down..Then get off and let him think..Good luck
On the nipping…horses can be violent w each other…kicking biting each other in their own communication. My guy gets treats from hand ONLY Because he does not nip or demand. Treats are part of my training for tricks…he very food oriented… I use gentleness always…unless dangerous behavior then I believe in IMMEDIATE CORRECTION.. horses that bite kick etc so dangerous.
I would immediately smack hard on neck and walk away…withdraw ….never hand feed a horse that nips. All have different personalities…what works for one may not be as effective on another.
I believe in more work for bad behavior…
make sure your horse knows you are leader and not to dare push you around on ground. Same in saddle.. bad behavior means more work…always end ride on good responses…if stop on bad behavior horse thinks that’s what you want and you have reinforced the bad behavior by taking pressure away at wrong time.
I agree with this, nipping is being disrespectful and can only lead to trouble – does he try to walk all over you or through you when it suits him too – do not allow disrespect in any way.
Good Info Sandi !!
I have the same problem as Jenni, with nipping with my 3 and a half year old gelding. I know this is quite common in infancy and something that some horses take a while to grow out of. But I am also concerned it will turn into biting!!
I nudge him away or “cup” him on his shoulder when he does it (an it can be frequent!) and it does improve for a bit and then it returns.
I would be interested in others’ views on this too.
Jenny, great that you’re walking back towards the barn. Practice relaxing, exhaling then telling your horse to slow from any gait. Reinforce every time you mount & warm-up (I get on & try to ride using only my legs, no overt rein pressure). Use ‘whoa’ only when stopping. Clearly command ‘walk’ when that’s what you want, relax, exhale, say once(give a few steps for compliance) then reinforce with reins. If you have to rein hard, keep your hands low & pull towards your knees, make sure your weight is back in the saddle (even feel like you’re bracing your feet out in front). Take the time, that if she trots towards the barn, turn her away/ opposite direction until composed each time. If possible, continue walking past the usual barn turn-off. The ride ain’t over ’til you say it’s over.
Mounting: Do you use a mounting block? Set yourself up for success, have mare facing fence or corner, not an easy straight ahead run out. When leading her to mounting area, do same exhale/halt as you’ll use in the saddle. Practice stopping/waiting/relaxing in this spot dismounted or mounted. And plenty of praise to the horse when relaxed. My gelding loves his ‘atta boy’.
Having read both Jenny’s and Julie’s problem I can say I have not had the trotting down hill issues but have had the nipping and the occasional kick. Both these horses are young and both geldings. I bought a quarter horse gelding when he was two but did not bring him home until he was nearly 4.
Most of these issues are lack of respect. Your horse is trying to be the Leader and sounds like he is getting away with it. No one says you have to beat your horse into submission but like children there comes time when you you have tried correcting them by being “nice” and the horse just keeps pushing. They will do this in the field and the Alpha mare will take them in hand and discipline them quite strongly and make them feel very uncomfortable until they learn some manners.
I have a great relationship with my horse but only because he has respect for me but I have had to work very hard for this and he tests me every so often to see if he can get away with anything. Re the nipping I actually nipped my horse back on the muzzle and firmly said NO and made myself quite big in the box. The result, my horse looked quite shell shocked. Then by my body language I sent my horse to the back of his box and when he stepped forward I did the same as an Alpha mare, looked at his shoulder and pushed him back to back of the box this made him uncomfortable as wanted to come back to me but I wouldn’t let him then after about 5 minutes – a long time in a horse’s life. I released the pressure and he came forward and I made a fuss of him he tried it again a few weeks later and I did the same thing and now he will nibble me with his lips but no teeth.
The same with the raising his leg as if to kick as he decided he didn’t want me to do something. I knew I wasn’t doing anything unpleasant to him he just decided he was going to call the shots I made sure I only had soft toed boots on and as quickly as his leg came out and went down I kicked him back just above the hoof. Again a shocked response I went around to the other side and he did the same thing with the other leg so I did the same thing again and I also say NO in a very firm voice. He has never attempted to kick me again.
The moral of my story is I treat my horse on the ground the same way a mare would if he was in the field and tried the same disrespectful behaviour. I can now walk my horse on a lead rope and headcollar for miles and he will walk alongside me with his head level with my shoulder at all times and if I stop so does he and he will walk at my speed. We have total respect for each and for each other’s space.
I also think that Julie’s problem with her horse trotting fast down hill and throwing his head and not standing still at the mounting block are all problems caused by her horse not respecting her and doing just what he likes when he likes. Changing bits and tack is not always the answer this is all about her relationships with her horse. It isn’t easy and I found it really difficult to be so assertive with my boy but it works and no one has been injured, beaten or yelled at. I did a lot of ground work before I rode him as I felt if he doesn’t have any respect for me on the ground then he will not have any respect for me in the saddle.
My mare used to do it all the time and I just kept elbowing her every time; sometimes it was my hand that would bump her away. It took about 4 years before she realize I wasn’t accepting her nipping. She’s a very loving and giving mare and still tries sometimes because I think she’s trying to give attention to me…but, don’t give up. As far as trotting down hill, never had that problem but good luck.
Smitty’s response is great! If for any reason that does not work then try this:
I live in northern Utah in a high mountain valley and we ride in the mountains. I had the same problem going down a steep hill with my horse. Then I started making him take a tight circle every single time he moved into a trot. The first two or three trail rides it was a real “pain in the butt” for me, for the first part of the ride , then he would get with my program, but dang if by the third day he was sick and tired of constant circling and I do mean TIRED (so was I…it was a lot of turns). But suddenly he got it. If you are traversing a hill try to turn to the uphill side. When we first take off for a ride he wants to go into a trot as well…turn, turn, turn. Now he is pretty much perfect! Justin Dunn, a Mustang natural horsemanship guy is the one who got this corrected for me. I ride bitless by the way and have had perfect control.
The word “pulling” gives me a bad visual. I don’t know if you are riding English or Western, but half halts, squeeze & release, alternating hands may bring you a better response.
I teach my 6 & 7 year old students to not “pull.” They also disengage the hind end if something like this is going on, and it works for them.
About trotting home:I had a similar problem and I stopped riding for a few weeks and just did natural horsemanship ground exercises (there are lots of good books). Now on a good day I can even canter here or there on the way home where the downhill is not too steep! I think ground work might help the other problems too although with the not standing still I would persistently passively, gently irritate her, by acting as if to get on and stay with her, so moving away doesn’t help – only I wouldn’t give her more than she can cope with, just a bit at a time for as long as it takes. Do it when you have no time pressure.
Good luck!
Eva.
For the bit problem—Take your horse to a vet that is great with teeth. Eliminate the possibility of pain from a rotten tooth, infected gums etc. My OTTB loves the bitless bridle.
I agree wholeheartedly with Shirley. Both these problems arise due to lack of respect for the rider and her advice to treat your horse as if YOU ARE THE MARE IN CHARGE is just what I would (and do)do. IRO the trotting down hill on the way home, try turning a circle each time the horse breaks into a trot. Also try to keep a horse that walks home calmly next to your horse. Get teeth checked iro headthrowing although it seems to me to be an intimidation movement by your horse – put a neck strap around your horses neck, grab it and sit firm. Your horse will then be pulling against itself, and believe me they are not stupid and will soon catch on. You are going to have to develop your confidence as a rider or get someone more confident to ride your horse out until the horse gets the idea that trotting home is not allowed.
Best of luck, we’ve all been there at some time in our riding life.
Hi jenny my mare use to be like that too all keen to get home and would bounce all the way if made to walk. I began disengaging the hips every time even if it ment doing a dozen tight circles on the spot to begin with. It made rushing hard work (very hard) took a while but she did stop. Cheers Rhonda
Every time my young gelding swung his head around like he wss going to nip I would just be quick enough and bring my elbow up. He only hit it a couple of times. I never hit him he just swung into my elbow. Has never trird it since
Well julie you have to establish yourself as the alpha horse when on the ground as well as in the saddle. When you watch horses turned out in a pasture generally there is always the one horse that gets led in first because they are the alpha horse off the pasture. If you look ussually thay same horse will discipline the other horses if they do something the alpha horse dose not like. You have to be the alpha horse and discipline your horse. Ussually the alpha horse goes at the horse that is creating a disturbance really quick and harsh for a few seconds to put the horse back into its place. This is what you have to do. When Your horse is nibbling you that is fine its when they try to bite is the problem. As soon as they try to take a bite you go after them with your hands and feet. It is crucial that you do not use a whip or any other object, and it is crucial that you do not wait to do it. Because if you wait a minute or two they will not know why you are beating them and it might cuse them to resent you and to continue to act out. Hope this helps
❓ My 10 month old filly has a few times snuck up on me and nipped my back — I swing around with a big “NO!” and she usually runs off. Since I don’t know when I’ll be able to get a companion for her (she’s been an “only” for the last two months – raised before that with her mama and a gelding), I want to be her alpha but I’m so concerned that she doesn’t have another older horse with her. I’ve been working with her since she was 1 day old, so she’s good on lead, grooming, basic commands. What can I do with her to make sure she doesn’t become a spoiled brat? Thanks!
Its my opinion that a horse that misbehaves does not respect human. What I did with a horse that nipped and kicked at me when I was brushing or attempting to saddle up was, take a thick rolled up newspaper and swat him with it every time he did it and, it did not take him long to figure out that he really didn’t want to do that. would put a martingale, or a simple tie down on a horse that throws her head.
I broke a horse from that rearing stunt by slamming my fist between her ears as she was standing just about straight up. That may sound mean but rearing up is a very serious bad habit. She never did that to me again. Its all about respect and bonding….Good Luck
I agree Linda. I have also used the whack between the ears as they rear trick – works well, gives them the shock of their lives. When one mare didn’t want to do something she used to do the rear and swing trick – I think her previous owner thought it was funny – I did not – a couple of sharp whacks between the ears put a stop to that behaviour!
I do not hand treats , can lead to hand hunting which can lead to biting , turn your horse back on the trail or maybe switch it up a bit but they always speed up near home , i have a 5yr app mare with one eye and she even speeds up a bit maybe more work close to home ?
Jenny , sounds like bake to basic schooling.I am guessing your horse is not well balanced or using back properly. Get educated (or knowing help and try a german martingale for a while especially at home to teach horse to round back and come down to the bit . do not use at tight setting , rather loose as a back up to catch should she throw head up . then practice going up and down hills encourageing her to get under herself in balance. trained my field hunters this way , always decreasing speed on decents(trot up walk down, trot canter up ,walk trot down) on a hunt at gallop actually felt like they were down shifting on decents.very controlled.
Jullie . trainer taught me this yrs ago . carried dressage whip in left hand faceing backwards as walked the horse. any motion to bite was met with a simple flick of the whip to tap under the belly. It does not make head shy as not associated with your hand and done right they don’t know where it came from ,only that biting results in belly tap . first time I saw it , was a biting fool of a stallion. after 30 min walk , never saw him bite again.
good luck ladies
Hello, i have a 3 yr old percheron a BIG baby! The best thing for our babys is practice and positive reinforcement! Its is eay easier for a horse to trot downhill! So what we are asking them to do is something that doesnt feel natural! Walk your horse through it on lead rain and give lots of love for positive result if space allows change direction like zig zag down the hill to slow them down x my baby nibbles everything but its very clear that its a playfull nible they dont have hands and will use their mouths to explore everything that they can if a nip feels agressive i bite back using my hand to pinch this imitates their own natural behavior as an alpha would in the herd x i dont believe in hitting your horse but i try to imitate their own behavior after all we want to be accepted into the herd too x practice makes perfect visualize what you want to achieve! Horses learn to anticipate our actions by the way we feel ! If you lnow the hill is coming your probably already visualizing the trot happening and the horse will feel that ! Take a deep breath and before you teach the hills try and visualize a slow decent ! Happy horsing around peeps x
If a horse tries to run back to the barn check for pain and saddle fit first. Sometimes a horse will tolerate pain while on a ride but when he knows he’s headed for home, and will be rid of the pain, he just can’t get there fast enough. If pain isn’t an issue, work him in the arena when you return so he knows the work doesn’t end when the trail ride is over. I did this and my horse never rushed back to the barn. Eventually you can cut down the arena time once the good habit is formed.
With many of the horses I’ve encountered who move off when mounting, backing up slightly works.
(of course, this is after ensuring its not a health/discomfort issue)
However, a particular mare I used to ride was an exception. She would not move away from the person, as most horses do, but rather, move forward (to the person’s left if you face her) and sometimes swing her hind away. Nothing worked, until someone advised I raise my left hand (slowly, non-threateningly) and put slight pressure along her lower-neck to shoulder, all the while talking to her. Everything was firm, but calm. She’d generally stop moving about and after a bit more pressure, move back. The problem lessened after that, and we got on well.
It worked for me, it worked for her, though I’ve no idea if it will work on any other horse. Good luck 😀
SO is there a difference in how you should treat a playful nibble and a nip? My horse nibbles playfully all the time. He is very inquisitive and he is young and he nibbles at everything. But he isn’t nipping at all but I am worried that this could easily turn into nipping and then biting.
When I take him out for a walk and he is walking beside me along the ride, he will occasionally turn towards me and sometimes do the nibble thing.
Should I address this and if so, how?
Hi Marylou
That depends on weather you are ok with him playfully nibbling or not. I, personally, am always ok with that. However, some people aren’t and you’re in control of the relationship you build.
What I do if I’m bitten hard/aggressively, is say (immediately) ‘no/hu-uh/don’t/etc’ firmly, not shouting, but louder than normal, and give a small but firm slap on shoulder area. It should never be a big hit (where you raise your arm and bring it in or anything of that sort). the trick is not violence, but rather, an attitude of no-nonsense as another horse would react to the behaviour.
I agree totally with Shirley, I have done a lot of groundwork with my now 11 year old gelding. He totally respects me on the ground, in all manners. I have to take him in the school when I’ve been on holidays, as he’s the herd leader in his field, he tries his luck & I have to re assert the mare behaviour, but this is only basics of pressure release. He has nipped since I got him at 3 and I partly blame myself for feeding him treats, however we are working on this through his groundwork and he’s getting better.
Hi
I have had the same with my boy. Is there a different way you can go home? I have changed to bitless and he is a lot calmer now. Perhaps you should give that a try. My boy used to bite but that is because previous owners used to smack him and her kids smacked him in the face. So he got defensive and when a hand came to him he would think it was for that. He now doesn’t do it, but can forget his manners if you have mints as he just want them. I don’t give if he is pushy and he is learning to leave when I say so and then take. He will only be given once every two month otherwise other treats are put in his bowl. His reward is a scratch and tickle. As I wouldn’t give my dogs treats every time they did something right as I don’t carry treats with me. I want my boy to respond to my voice, body language. Just last night he was playing up and wouldn’t go to bed, instead of trying to drag him I lent of the railing and waited. He stood a little away and then walked calmly into his stable and I closed the door. I did give him a cuddle afterwards. You do have to be patient and relaxed because 9/10 they will give in and do what you ask but if tensed up they do the opposite. This I have had to learn the hard way and am learning each day. Have I got it down to a tee, no but we are getting there. Our bond is great but he does know I am a softy. Lol. I am still learning and he will always try his luck like any of us. I know that a lot of times I am the one who causes the problem but we are getting there.
Good luck
Jenny,
My 20 year old apply whom I got when he was 12 years old used to want to trot down hills etc.
On a trail riding camp in 2009 an equine chiro showed how/where his sacrum joint was about an inch further forward on onside compared to the other.he used a tennis ball held on the misaligned joint and with a precise strike with a rubber mallet hit the ball.He then proceeded to lift each rear leg quite high to manipulate.Then for a final check of even balanced area he gently lent back on his tail to watch the top line rump muscles flex evenly.
His sacrum has been fine since and I can enjoy downhills at my pace and also last Easter have gone bitless.
Julie,
It seems like you are falling into the trap of play games with your horse unbeknown to you BUT your horse is fully aware of the game.
I learnt from a cheeky QH of mine that when i was doing little things to him that he didn’t approve of,he would give me a little grunt from his throat to express his disapproval.So I started copying these grunts when he would nip or try to nip me and he seemed to get the message.By this style of communication we weren’t playing horsey game of nip/nip/pull away and then back for another nip.I also move the rear of my open palm hand up to where he can see it.I only move it about a foot in a quick sudden action when I grunt – I think he perceives this as a prelude to a body strike from another animal( that is me ) and not the start of a game.try this.
Jenny, if you cannot stop your horse from trotting downhill, it could be lack of balance and wanting to fall on forehand, ie not getting hind legs underneath. he could be sore in the hind legs, hocks, stifle or sacro-iliac area. Can he rein back easily? try working him in hand up and down hill, starting small and increasing slowly. If none of this is the problem, do a series of walk a few steps and halt, using as little hand as possible.he will soon start to anticipate the halt and slow down. it also helps to balance them. rushing is usually a balance problem. I train that exercise frequently on young horses, do it in different places and start on the level where it is easier.
You must have used a lot of force to cause your horse to rear.I your hands are soft the bit is not the issue. exercises like rein back and disengaging the hind legs are also good and can be done from the ground. I good natural trained should be able to help you.
I agree also w circle tightly if they rush downhill…wks for other mounted misbehavior also.
Jennny,
Shift your weight to the back of your saddle. Right before you start to head home, speak firmly, tighten your seat and control. Letting go the final little bit is giving her a reward for being naughty. Stay tough until the end. The horse needs to know you are in charge from the moment you leave the barn.
Jenny, Use noise aversion when the horse tries to nip. A sharp nasal grunt or vocalization from you every time she tries to nip will eventually stop the behavior.
Hi Julie
I would be tempted to go back to basics. As pointed out your little horse is enjoying the game playing! Trotting down hill is a dangerous game to play.
Hi Jenny
Sounds like your horse may have a balance issue on hills. One point you should make certain of is your seat – do not lean or sit forward on hills; stay balanced. You may want to try going part way up the hill and then turning back down to help build muscles for the horse as well as you. Go as far up as she will walk as well as walk down. You may even try doing some serpentines as you go down so she cannot rush.
Trotting home problem – work him – ride him in circles everytime he picks up the trot or change his direction home. He is getting barn sour.
Bitting and Nipping – I have one just like that. It is the way horses play and they see you as a pasture mate. I taught my horse that I won’t have it. I verbally tell him NO MOUTH or No Biting. They know how to relate words to actions. I push his head away when I use the command. You might need a crop as an extended hand until they understand. As they mature, they will learn. Mine did.
I haven’t had time to read all the replies but my apologies if someone has already said this…
I had a little 13’2hh French pony that used to rush down the hill (not on the way home) He was a bit unbalanced because he hadn’t done an awful lot of schooling so I assumed he found it easier to trot than to walk. I started zigzagging all the way every time, after about five times out I tried again and he was fine. Not really sure if it was more work in the school or the fact it took us twice as long to get to the bottom of the hill…Worked for us anyway and might be worth a try!
Well I tended to teach my young boy (just gone 5 ) in walk I would ask for slower walk saying steady he now tip toes as I call it I now use that going down hills cuss as all horses he seems to know when we are on our way back if however he makes a big deal out of going home like trying to trot and so on I change the rote and dibble back he is much better now I also ride bitless so it’s deffo the seat and voice I use x
Walk at an angle going down hill and everytime she tries to trot, turn her head and force her to walk in circles at the same time she is walking down hill at the angle.
It worked for my horse
Good luck!
To Jenny with the trotting horse:
First train you horse on the ground (on the lunge) so he understand the word ”Walk”(while troting, ask him to walk) this same word that you will use when he starts troting down the hill, that will help you not to have to pull too much to ask him to walk. If/when he trots, turn around and go up hill again for a short distance (if you can off course, depending on the landscape) and then turn and comme back down hill again at the walk, repeat if necessary, (you will need patient trail mates but it is worth it).
Try to use a sidepull, it gives you good control without a bit (I’m talking about the western side pull with the rope over the nose and the 2 rings on the sides to attach you reins ).
On you way home, find a spot to do some work with the horse (circles, side pass, etc.) so the last kilometer is not only about going straight back home.
Arriving home, don’t get off and go to the stabble right away, go to the outdoor arena and work your horse (same idea : it is not so fun anymore to rush home to work).
About the stand still, you have a respect-leader problem. After you get on, don’t leave, stay there for a while. Horse know that after you mount, you take off, so they anticipate. Just stand there,if he moves,don’t pull both reins, keep him moving (working) using the ”one rein stop” to disengage the back legs (which are the ”gas pedal”) (see the technique on Youtube from different trainors) untill he decide to stop circling and decide to stand still (reward him by stopping doing anything = pressure is off when he stands still). WHen standing, You can ask for some flexions on each side, good for leadership and submission check up. WHen everythyng is OK and the horse is relaxed, then you start walking. It is going to take some time but the horse will get the idea that he will not be aloud to walk right after the rider mounts him or he will be put into circles (work).
The ” One-Rein-Stop” is also very good to slow down a horse (suppose you walk in the riding arena and he decides to start trotting by himself); it can also be use as a pressure when the horse doesn’t listen to you, instead of pulling the 2 reins that most of the time doesn’t do any good…
Hope that helps,
Louise
Jennie, I have an Arab that also likes to pick up a trot when we get close to home. I make him slow the speed to a walk and refuse to allow him to trot back to the gate, and often when returning I make him walk past home just to remind him I am in control.
Louise’s advice is good. I would like to add that at least 1/2 hour of the right groundwork is good before every ride. Also when you horse wants to trot down the hill let him then work him hard when he gets to the bottom, circling, bending, sidepassing, serpentines, etc at a canter is best. Then go back up the hill & come back down, if he trots again repeat until he will walk down the hill on a loose rein. Good luck & stay safe. 🙂
I have a Arabian quarter horse mixed 7 years old she likes to trot instead on walk . I was told that she likes to trot because she likes to show off . I don’t know anything about trotting down hill because I live in West Texas which is desert. But I agree with the others she needs to know who is the Boss! Good luck with your horse.
First of all get rid of the bit. Bits actually aggravate the horse because it’s like a pain to have this metal bar in the mouth. It’s like control instead of training. Like handcuffs. Try a bitless halter. 😳
With your mare wanting to trot downhill, I have had the same issues with my little mare as well and I found that I am having to tire her out more during our ride.
Also I have found that using voice commands, “woo” or something like that diverts my mares attention and lets me bring her back under control
To start with, you have a “young green horse”, & these are the things young horses do until they learn otherwise. I have two young green horses myself & I’m still working them through such issues that improve all the time. Everything needs to be addressed with “ground work”. To stop a horse from walking off when mounting, you need to work on “Backing up” your horse, with a plastic bag, then a whip, until you can just use a lead rope, then ultimately your fingers on the lead rope. Secondly; lots of flexing the neck from side to side, right & left from the ground. Then once its time to mount the horse, make sure the horse is flexed at the neck with one reign to its mane. Keep practising this & it won’t walk off again… if it does, get off & “BACK IT UP”! To stop a horse from rushing off, whether its down hill or up hill… Keep flexing that neck & ride in a circle till it slows down (left & right). They’ll soon learn that there’s a “reaction to there actions” & become a more soft yielding horse. Make sure to have a chin strap on the bit, to stop pulling it through the mouth. All young horses will fight this at first but will eventually become soft with time. Enjoy establishing that partnership… Nothing better than learning together with a young horse, making you a better “horseman” rather than just being a good rider.
Hi jenny
I have a 7 yo Arab gelding who I am slowly breaking in I had the same problem. Luckily we agist with riding school
Horses so I stuck him behind the slowest horses until he understood walking down hill slowly is better for both of our healths
Michelle
If you stand at the side of your horse to mount ..take hold of the saddle front and back and rock the horse from side to side..he will plant his feet to steady himself..you then get on ..if he moves repeat until he stands to mount ..then back up 2 steps..Good luck
Jenny, at 4 years old, I assume you filly hasn’t had more than basic training under saddle. I don’t know if her conformation is downhill or not but but she would naturally carry about 60% of her weight on her forehand. Going down hill will make it worse and unless she has learn to shift her weight to her hindquarters she would naturally be inclined to speed up on downhills. I don’t know how steeply sloped your downhills are but try asking her to stop at the beginning of the slope, let her stand while you praise her and scratch her withers. Then ask her to walk forward a few steps and stop again. If the slope is long stop a few more times. Do this for several days until she expects to stop then stop her at the beginning of the down hill and reduce the number of stops on the way down until all you need do is slight check her as you begin the down hill decent.
Also, difficulty handling downhills can be a symptom of soundness issues. If you continue to have problems, ask your vet to check your filly.
From your comments I am guessing you don’t have a lot of experience on horseback and you are on a nice but green horse. Because you were looking for an answer to your problem online, I’m guessing you aren’t working with a riding instructor/trainer.
To prevent your horse from developing bad habits you may do well to find a good instructor/trainer to work with.
My horse use to trot downhill. At first I would turn him into a circle when he try this, and then I suspected something physical. I brought in a equine message therapist, and she suspected shoulder pain, which would make sense. After a couple of her sessions he has not trotted downhill once since…
Good suggestions from Sandi
We have a steep hill on the homeward run and I have trained hundreds of young horses not to cart me home over 20yrs or more.
They all vary but most techniques have required time in whatever amount required to imprint an appropriate behavior.
If u do feel the need to dismount it’s not really letting her win. Lead her with no interaction except quiet commands and use ” no” be terse but not angry, whenever she doesn’t comply. Half halt and halt frequently for at least 10 seconds. Hold her head parallel to u and don’t engage and talk except to say walk on, whoa and stand etc
If she tries to look elsewhere or at you just keep her facing forward. By not offering her any companionship at this time and massively slowing the transit time, without actually getting cross it gives her two option. One where she is bored and isolated or one where she is encouraged and loved and included. Get off and do it the first sign of trot and her resistance. Its quite hard to do because you are role playing at disliking your horse. But it has worked dramatically well in many cases of tension and disobediwnce. When they “give in ” it usually comes with a huge sigh and a massive change in behavior. Its by no means the first technique to try but has always worked for me with tough cases.
As for bar bits, they can seriously bruise the bars of the mouth or even cause fractures so be extra careful as they injure themselves on them as they throw heads about – even the rubber and vulcanite mouth pieces. My son is an equine dentist and has seen hundreds of horses with fractured bars from bar bits even when riders seem to be using good light contact.
Hello.If u want your horse to stand still while you get on you have to teach him to stand.First you have to flex him to the left getting him to hold it there then release,then keep doing this till he knows to flex..then proceed to flex the head and proceed to get snored,he will Probebly go round in circles,but will eventually stand then proceed to mount again,He may keep moving round ,but wait till he stops again. This could go on for some time, then he’ll get sick if going round and let u mount.Do this exercise until he knows to stand when you want to mount..Please have patience..Good luck..
😀 To all, The TTellington Touch books( Human- Equine Therapy) and Centered Riding by Sally Swift are 2 real ‘bibles’ in solving individual rider and horse problems.
Please resource them and buy them,,,,it builds confidence and trust for both human and equine.
Happy Horsing,
Elfrede
I am not sure how this plea for help surfaced now, since I sent it in two years ago! Nevertheless, thanks to everyone for your constructive advice. I did in fact get the same and similar advice from other sources in the meantime and had some success. However, I eventually decided she was too much horse for me to handle and gave her to a young friend who is a braver rider than I am and who loves her just as much as I did – so everyone is a winner.
Why do horses choose to trot, and what are the benefits of this gait?
Horses trot because it’s a natural, efficient gait that sits comfortably between a walk and a faster pace. Trotting provides good exercise, engaging their core and legs while being gentler on their joints. For riders, it helps improve balance and strength, making it a key focus in lessons. Plus, horses often trot out of excitement or playfulness, showcasing their energy and spirit. It’s a happy and versatile gait for both horse and you!