“I have trained horses most of my life. I would like to weigh in on the bit issue as, like everything in life, there are many factors involved.
The most important thing is in YOUR HANDS. I have always ridden with a snaffle. If you start your horse in a small controlled area, you can bring them along rather quickly. The reason a horse gives to the bit is for the release. When you start training with the bit, just take up mild pressure on which ever side (always do the same thing, the same number of times on both sides. A horses brain is divided, so what you do on one side, has to be “trained” on the other side also.
When you start, take the slack out of the left or right rein and apply mild pressure. Make sure the horse has adequate room to turn in that direction. Just hold that pressure until the horse gives in direction. IMMEDIATELY, release the pressure. Horses are different so it can take many times on one side until you start getting the right amount of give from your horse. Mix it up from one side to the other. In starting out, I would recommend a5 to 20 times on one side & then the other. Your horse will start giving to the bit quicker and quicker, as long as you give the Immediate release as soon as he gives. With patience and CONSISTENCY, your horse will get lighter and lighter. Never increase the pressure to get what you want. Heavy pressure makes the horse want to lean into it to protect it’s mouth. I know this is long, but it’s important. If you stay with it, your horse will get to the point that you can just barely make contact with the mouth and they will give in that direction. You do not have to be heavy handed on the bit. Horses that have had heavy handed riders or severe bits used on them, may be more of a challenge, but can be brought around with patience.
Consistency is extremely important when starting any new activity. A horse is just guessing when we ask them to do something. When you get the right response, praise them, stroke their head/neck, depending on what you are in position to do. Stroke, do not pat, it is an unnatural thing to a horse. Nothing in nature pats them. Other horses, the mare, etc. nuzzle in a more of a stroking motion. When you praise the right thing & ignore the errors, they will soon start picking up on what you are trying to teach.
Another thing that most people are not aware of, let me explain. When you ask for the give with the rein, the timing is very important. You want to practice getting in rhythm with the movement of the front legs. Just ride around for a bit and mentally do so – as in when the left foot comes off the ground, think left, left, etc. then also on the right side. It should just become automatic. Then when you cue the horse to give to the right rein, you do it as the left foot comes off the ground. The horse can then easily give to the bit, bring the left foot across in front of the right foot (which is still on the ground) and move into the turn. Do just the opposite for a left turn, as the right foot comes off the ground.
If you cue for a right turn as the left foot is coming down, the horse is way out of position. He cannot change where the left foot is going to land & you are asking him to go right, he really has to take another 2 steps (one w/the right foot & then w/the left to start bringing it across into the turn. Horses that are quite athletic can compensate somewhat, by starting the turn with the right foot – if you are asking when the left foot is landing, but it is still quite awkward for them. Get these things into your head and it will make things much easier for you and the horse. When you start putting the horses needs and requirements first, your horse will notice and try harder to please. Your horse doesn’t care how much you know until they know how much you care.
That doesn’t mean that you try to baby them (ladies). Many of you over do try to just love them through what ever you want, especially in the beginning. You need to treat them as a horse, as a student. Praise the right response, work through the errors without a scene, i.e. yelling, whacking, etc. The calmer you are correcting errors, consistent, etc. the more the horse will realize he doesn’t have to protect himself. He can relax and start cooperating to learn.
Hope this helps – enjoy.
Larry”
Big thanks to Larry for sharing this. I thought it a very helpful post.
Best
Al
I totally agree with the way you are training – its riding with your mind!!
Terrific primer on the biomechanics of turning: I had never thought of it and it makes so much sense–set up the conditions where success is more readily achieved. Thanks!! 😆
I’m sure Larry is a good trainer. It’s not the training that concerns me. It’s the accidents. Bits break teeth. If a wasp stings your horse (this happens a lot) and your horse goes into a bucking fit, how light are your hands then? If you accidentally get swiped off by a low tree branch, how light are you hands then? I worked at The Adelaide History Museum in Australia. Our job was to find an intact horse skull. All the domestic horse skulls we looked at had broken teeth. Eventually we were given the skull of an old wild Brumby (like the U.S. mustang). Perfectly intact.
The training method I use is just like Larry’s, however I use a Dr Cook’s bitless bridle. Same results. The pressure can be applied around the horses cheek and poll and gets the same result. A lovely light horse that lightly collects. No need for metal in her mouth.
Thank you for your words of inspiration – I have found your post very useful and will remember this when I next ride. I have only had around 5 lessons in my life and am 47 years old, I have had my boy for around 7 years now and I am a novice hacker 😆 I work full time and so does my husband but our horses are our babies – I know! I know! but my boy is 21 and I have just taken on another old boy at approx 24yrs we are lucky to live in a sea side town and the horses do not “work” but are purely for pleasure riding – they have a good life with a sea view!!
Thank you for your help – I am sure they would want to thank you too. xx
Excellent advice and I really appreciated the timing of the turn with the horse’s feet; I had not thought about that before. Keep these great helpful articles coming! 😀
Very good comments!
Thanks so much. I’m a new horse owner and I winded about patting. I’ll make sure to stroke instead of pat from now on.
What you said about the cue when turning makes total sense and could be why sometimes I think my horse has delayed action when he is just doing what comes naturally. My timing is off not his. (smile)
I think that this advice should be used 😀 I agree with you that with your body language should be calmness my horse that doesn’t really care about anything jumps every time my (loud annoying) brother comes near with anything she spooks EVERY time so this is an example that horses are smart and they know if you are calm, scared, etc. I had an autistic boy ride her and she is normally a really fast walker go as slow as she could! I was impressed and reminded that they are very smart!
🙂 Wise advice!
Excellent advice. Also never thought about this timing of the feet; makes so much sense. I also use a very soft rubber snaffle on trail rides otherwise my horse is dependable even just a halter. Thanks
Wonderful advice. Not sure how many people really understand this. Definitely deserves practice. We need to be seen as the leaders in this relationship – but sincere, caring, understanding and patient at the same time.
Many thanks for your input. More please,
Marilyn ❗ 😀 💡
A great article from Larry. I just want to remind everyone that the good hands Larry talks about, those that can time a release especially when in a gait other than the walk, can exist only if the rider has an independent seat.
Thanks for the advice! Your explaintion was clear
and precise. When I was still actively training students, I had them start out with a halter and 2 lead lines and bareback. I felt the balance and the
soft hands must come before a steel bit.When we did use a bit it was a snaffle. I also used rubber bits as needed. I also asked my students to picture what they wanted to do-it was a treat to see the students achieve their goals.vice.
Thanks again for your a
Hooray, this will improve everything that we do with our horses from the basic connection and overall relationship. Your horse will be a happy camper when you are on his back while the synchronicity of the two of you will shine through and distinguish you as a rider. This is called cadence and timed cueing. It can be learned easily from practice of long lineing.
Thanks I Have a lot to learn
I enjoyed reading larry’s comments there is a lot of good information there, I’m going to try with my horse I never heard about the timing of the front legs before but it makes sense. My horse has lost respect to me and don’t know if its because I changed to an english bitless but know he won’t give and shakes his head and is rearing up on me larry help!!
Great article, thanks! I “physically” knew about timing cues with the feet but you described it so well! I’ve ridden 20 years using bits and have only transitioned to bittless (and shoeless) in the last two. For me it really comes down to miles. Lots of one on one walking, trotting, cantering. ..traveling together to build skills and the relationship that fosters understanding and softness.